For a relatively young wine this is already quite expressive, the fruit rich and creamy but bright and lifted at the same time. There are both red and dark berry notes as well as a hint of chocolate. and despite the alcohol the wine appears balanced. Drink soon for the hedonistic fruit or age for 20-odd years. The 'must-try' pick.

Aromas of blueberry, black cherry, clove, dark chocolate and sandalwood. It's medium-to full-bodied with firm, polished tannins. Smooth and velvety with hot stones on the finish. Firm and polished at the end. From organically grown grapes

The Vray Croix de Gay is an attractive, open-knit wine, just as it was en primeur. Pliant, silky and sumptuous, the 2018 is simply impeccable in its balance. Inky dark fruit, lavender and a hint of spice are all laced together. The 2018 is an effortless Pomerol of total grace. Time in the glass brings out attractive floral notes that add freshness and perfume.